Description
Silicone rubber for puppet making has been around for quite a few years now and yet it's still new and intimidating to many stop motion puppet makers. There are beliefs about it being very expensive, difficult to use, sensitive to other materials and so on - and these are myths that need to be BUSTED! :)
The truth about silicone is that it is a very friendly to use material and the cost is very comparable to most other casting rubbers such as foam latex and urethane rubbers. There are many advantages to using silicone and a lot to tips and tricks to using it.
Please post your comments, questions, examples of your works, reviews of brands and anything else related to silicone rubber puppet and prop making here!
Announcements
When I had a good sample of it and used it, it seemed suspiciously very much like another material I had used for basic home repair - silicone adhesive...
There are many types of silicone adhesive products on the market, but only a few fit the category I was looking for - the type that is clear and has a very strong solvent, in the methylene family. So I went out to my local store that sells basic home repair stuff and hunted through the racks of silicone caulking and found GE Silicone 1* for plumbing and bath.
I had some spare Platsil Gel 10 cured samples and applied it to one of them as a test patch. I glued a steel washer to it and I also smeared a patch of it alone on an area of my sample. I set it aside for several hours, allowing it to set up without any interference... IT WORKS!!!
Now don't get me wrong, for silicone there is no 'magic bullet' as far as adhesives go. You can always peel any substance cured against silicone off, but the question is... what bonds best? This stuff from GE bonds just as well and I suspect it is the same stuff as the 'Sil-Poxy' sold by Polytek.
So if you're in a bind for time and you've run out of silicone adhesive for your puppet, look to your local hardware shop for this stuff, cuz I think it's the same thing. (without the shipping costs and lag time waiting for the delivery)
Discussions
Wall
Have been using your mold making tutorials on You Tube as well, so thank you for that too x
I looked up the technical data sheet for Newplast and I see no sulfur content and it's listed as a non-toxic material so, you should be good to go! :)
Thanks x
I use 'Platsil Gel 10' but many people use 'Dragon Skin' also. Dragon Skin is a bit less expensive but, I've heard that Platsil has a better tear strength.
Silicone is a dense solid rubber so, it doesn't 'expand' into the mold. But there is an expanding foam called 'Soma Foama' that's a silicone foam you can fill the puppet with if weight is a concern. Silicone puppets can be heavy because it's a solid rubber so, the foam is worth considering.
I use the both of them on my puppets, casting as skin in the mold and then filling it with the foam. Sometimes I apply the foam to the armature instead of pouring it into the mold because the foam rises really fast and it's hard to trust that you'll fill the mold properly when you're working that fast. (you also need to drill release vents into the mold if you cast the foam in it so it has somewhere to escape after completely filling the mold)
If you've already got your sculpture done, I'll need to ask what type of clay you used? That's because silicone will not cure properly against some materials. (like latex or molds made from clays containing sulfur) If your clay contains sulfur, you can still use the mold made from it but, it should be coated with a wax based mold release to insure there won't be a bad reaction.
I've never had that kind of reaction happen with my castings and I suspect that some of the warnings about bad reactions are somewhat exaggerated.
Also, what's your armature made of? Wire is easiest but, ball & socket is best - if you have a ball & socket armature however, just as with foam latex, you should wrap the joints in either food cling wrap or pipe tape to prevent them from getting filled with the silicone.
Hey Ron, speaking of drilling air holes for Soma Foama, off the top of your head, where would you suggest drilling them for a humanoid puppet, gypsum plaster mold that was originally designed for foam latex? (FYI- haven't cast any foam latex in it yet so no issue there). I'm thinking fingers, head, feet. Do you drill them all in such a way so they are sandwiched between the two mold halves, or any through the actual body of the mold? (I wouldnt think so...) Do you think the extra cavities for overflow foam latex would be a problem for the expanding foam? The overflow cavities come fairly close to the puppet cavity at some points and end up leaving a relatively thin wall of gypsum between the puppet and the cavity.
Lots of questions I know, thank you in advance!
Duane
Where to start? Wow, that's a HUGE question! It all depends upon what you LIKE to do. All I can advise is that you let us know what you imagine or what interests you and we can help you get there. :)
but I don't have access to an oven and never used silicone before so am I needing to mix a flesh colour to the silicone or can it be painted?
You do both and you can use Createx airbrush acrylics as the tint. The base color of the silicone is a whitish milky translucent so you do need to tint it to a flesh color. Then to paint it you should use 'Psycho Paint' which is another silicone that you can thin down to either brush or airbrush.
There are tints specifically made for this called 'Silc Pig' tints and they ARE better for the job because they're more concentrated but they are quite expensive. I've been using the acrylics without any trouble and the price difference it pretty significant.
The instructions say that you shouldn't use more than 4% of the tints but, over time I've been adding it 'by eye' and I'm certain I've been adding more than that and I have not seen any negative effects.
http://www.smooth-on.com/ try this site they have all kinds of info [ how to vidios and product descriptions] on silicones and other stuff to [ like tints ansd such ]. cheers have fun and good luck , scott.
Oh - looks like I wasn't supposed to use this comments box - but I can't find a Discussions line, or see how to join the group. Ron is the greatest! - does that make it all right? Oops, forgot to wipe my feet, looks like I've got sulphur based clay on my boots too, that'll get me chucked out for sure!
HAAAAAAAA! That was great. (laughing hysterically) the discussions line is one of those gray bars above. Nick, you're a smart cookie, you'll figure it out. :)
Unless you're talking about SILICONE FOAM that is. :) (yes there is such a thing now and I love it)
Yes, I use Platsil Gel 10, it's a two part mix but there is a 3rd part you can get called 'Smith's Deadener' which will make it softer and stretchier if you want or need that. But that mostly just used for prosthetic make-up appliances.
You can paint it with another silicone called 'Psycho Paint'. That's great stuff because it has a long cure time so you have a lot of time to paint and you can thin it down enough to airbrush it.
Platsil is a translucent white rubber if you don't tint it and both the Platsil and Psycho paint can be tinted with acrylic paints. There are special tints made just for silicone (Silc-Pig tints) and they are better than acrylic but MUCH more expensive.
Yep, Ultracal 30 is fine - I'm using it for a casting right now actually. You can spray it with 'Mann Ease Release 200' if you want the mold to have a longer life but, a release really isn't necessary. :)